Foodie File: New restaurant showcases American backyard barbecue

In the action — Smokin J's BBQ was kind enough to let this writer have the firsthand experience of going out back to check out the smokers, where the magic happens. Slow-smoked pork, chicken and ribs are stacked in the smoker until those entrees are ready to be served to the restaurant’s customers.

In the action — Smokin J's BBQ was kind enough to let this writer have the firsthand experience of going out back to check out the smokers, where the magic happens. Slow-smoked pork, chicken and ribs are stacked in the smoker until those entrees are ready to be served to the restaurant’s customers.

BEACON PHOTO/JENNIFER CULLY

Lathered baby back ribs — An order of baby back ribs comes with a whole rack in three sections with your choice of two sides. Come hungry, because the portions at Smokin J’s BBQ & Catering are large. Smokin J’s takes pride in its smoky, juicy and tender barbecue.

Lathered baby back ribs — An order of baby back ribs comes with a whole rack in three sections with your choice of two sides. Come hungry, because the portions at Smokin J’s BBQ & Catering are large. Smokin J’s takes pride in its smoky, juicy and tender barbecue.

BEACON PHOTO/RYAN ROUGEUX

‘Nuthin Butt Piggin’ — This motto sums up Smokin J's BBQ & Catering: They are masters at cooking pork, and piggin’ out is encouraged. The sign out front welcomes barbecue-lovers.

‘Nuthin Butt Piggin’ — This motto sums up Smokin J's BBQ & Catering: They are masters at cooking pork, and piggin’ out is encouraged. The sign out front welcomes barbecue-lovers.

BEACON PHOTO/RYAN ROUGEUX

Family-owned — The Golloway family, wearing their Smokin J’s apparel, gathers underneath the logo at the front of their restaurant. "The restaurant is named after myself and my son, as he is my Jr.," owner Jeremy Golloway said. Family members are Aubrey, Patty, Jeremy, Jeremy Jr., Heather and Haleigh.

Family-owned — The Golloway family, wearing their Smokin J’s apparel, gathers underneath the logo at the front of their restaurant. "The restaurant is named after myself and my son, as he is my Jr.," owner Jeremy Golloway said. Family members are Aubrey, Patty, Jeremy, Jeremy Jr., Heather and Haleigh.

BEACON PHOTO/JENNIFER CULLY

The delightful aroma of smoked barbecue was evident as soon as I stepped out of my car at Smokin J’s BBQ & Catering in DeLand.

Memories of summer cookouts with family came back to me, and two billowing smokers behind Smokin J’s gave me a wave of comfort.

Jeremy and Heather Golloway opened Smokin J’s, at 803 W. New York Ave. in DeLand, on Nov. 18. They have been delivering tantalizing barbecue to this area ever since.

Customers will recognize the brick restaurant building as the location, over the past several years, of Italian, Cuban and Mexican restaurants. Maybe the Golloways will be the ones to make it work.

“I’ve been learning barbecue since I was a little kid, and it has always been a part of my life,” Jeremy Golloway said.

He worked for the Florida Department of Transportation as a senior inspector for most of his career, and his wife, Heather, continues to work for the FDOT.

Born and raised in Florida, Jeremy started his barbecue career doing catering for KIX Country radio station in Bunnell, working with a friend. They developed a delicious blend of spices for their barbecue, and made use of Jeremy’s family recipes.

Jeremy is the head chef at Smokin J’s. He coaches for the DeLand Pop Warner football league in his off-time.

The sign in front of Smokin J’s is decorated with a large pig wearing sunglasses, a chef’s hat and apron, and holding a fork and knife.

I walked in the front door and was greeted by head server Jennifer Cully, who has a bright smile and a shining personality. She’s one of six employees.

The 64-seat restaurant has wooden tables and chairs, and its walls are adorned with pictures of Florida, from its woods to the ocean.

There are also three large flat-screen televisions, so patrons can catch popular sports games.

I sat down at the bar and looked at the menu. A guest leaving the restaurant said, “You have to try their baby back ribs, the best you’ll ever have.”

That was good enough for me.

To go along with my full rack of ribs, I ordered the house-made baked beans and coleslaw. Smokin J’s has three kinds of barbecue sauce; my favorite is the tangy Carolina-style mustard sauce.

The meat was falling off the bone when I picked up my ribs to eat. They were juicy and tender, with a smoked flavor.

Server Cully said I must try Nana’s Puddin, banana pudding made from a family recipe that is Southern through and through, and made a sweet ending to my fine meal.

It’s not all ribs at Smokin J’s, although that may be the main attraction. Other menu items include Bun Fillers — sandwiches filled with your choice of smoked meat.

There are also loaded potato skins, fried okra and other accoutrements to accompany your main course.

Smokin J’s does catering as well, and will bring barbecue to any family event or celebration.

— Ryan Rougeux, info@beacononlinenews.com


SMOKIN J'S BBQ & CATERING

Location: 803 W. New York Ave., DeLand

Cuisine: American backyard barbecue

Hours: 11 a.m.-9 p.m. Tuesday through Sunday

Signature drinks: Sweet tea and Bud Light; draft and bottled beer is available, in addition to soft drinks

Price: Menu items generally range from $1 to $10

Kid-friendly: Yes

Pet-friendly: Service dogs only

Limited diets: No special items; salad is available

Alcohol: Draft and bottled beer

Our cost for one loaded-potato-skin appetizer, a full rack of ribs with two sides and a serving of Nana’s Puddin: $24.46, plus a $6 tip

Contact: 386-873-2872

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